Families of Oklahoma

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Choosing the Correct Ball Mount for Towing Your Trailer

 

When you make the purchase of your trailer you want to have a safe and comfortable experience. You want the trailer to be as level as possible to put less strain on the connection between your trailer and hitch.  Choosing the correct ball mount is very important.  A ball mount can be purchased with a rise or a drop.  Below are the steps to determine how much of a rise or drop is needed.

Measure the Hitch Height:

Measure from the ground to the top of the receiver opening on the trailer hitch.  On a Class III and IV hitch measure to the top of the 2″ hole and on a Class V hitch to the top of the 2-1/2″ hole.

 

Measure the Coupler Height:

Measure the coupler height from the ground to the bottom of the trailer’s coupler. Make sure the trailer is level and on level ground.

Compute the difference:

If the hitch height is greater than the trailer height, then

• hitch height – trailer height = drop

If the trailer height is greater than the hitch height, then

trailer height – hitch height = rise

The ball mount with the rise or drop closest to the difference should then be chosen. For example, if the hitch height is 24-3/4″ and the coupler height is 17″.  Because the hitch height is greater, a ball mount with a drop of 7-3/4″ would be required for a level trailer. A ball mount with an 8″ drop is closest to the actual drop and would be the right choice.

Ball Mount Dimensions

Drop

This is the distance from the top of the shank to the top of the ball platform.

Rise

Rise is the distance from the top of the shank to the top of the ball platform.

Length

The length is the distance from the center of the ball hole to the center of the pin hole. The length will determine how much clearance will be available between the vehicle and the trailer and can be used to get past a spare tire or tailgate.

Ball Hole Diameter

Ball hole diameter is the size of the hole in the platform of the ball mount. This measurement will determine what diameter shank your hitch ball should have for it to properly fit in the ball mount. Typical sizes are 3/4″, 1″ and 1-1/4″.

Ball Mount Classes

Class I Ball Mounts

When towing with a Class I trailer hitch, the Class I ball mount that is recommended by the manufacturer should be used. All Class I trailer hitches are tested and rated with the specific ball mount for that hitch. Using a ball mount that is not recommended by the manufacturer will void the warranty.

• Has a 1-1/4″ x 1-1/4″ shank
• Class II ball mounts will not fit on Class I trailer hitches
• Held in place with a 1/2″ pin
• Uses ball with a 3/4″ shank diameter
• Rated for 2,000 lbs GTW
• Only 1-7/8″ or 2″ hitch balls can be used

Class II Ball Mounts

When towing with a Class II trailer hitch, the ball mount that is recommended by the manufacturer should be used. All Class II trailer hitches are tested and rated with the specific ball mount for that hitch. Using a ball mount that is not recommended by the manufacturer will void the warranty.

• Has a 1-1/4″ x 1-1/4″ shank
• Class II ball mounts will not fit on Class I trailer hitches
• Held in place with a 1/2″ pin
• Uses ball with a 3/4″ shank diameter
• Rated for 3,500 lbs GTW
• Only 1-7/8″ or 2″ hitch balls can be used

Class III Ball Mounts

Class III ball mounts and hitches are rated to tow up to 6,000 lbs GTW. Class III ball mounts will work with trailer hitches that have a 2″ x 2″ opening. The GTW and TW of the ball mount should match or exceed the trailer hitch.

• Has a 2″ x 2″ shank
• Held in place with a 5/8″ pin
• Uses ball with a 1″ or 1-1/4″ shank diameter
• Rated for up to 6,000 lbs GTW
• Can use a 1-7/8″, 2″ or 2-5/16″ hitch ball
• Can accommodate weight distribution system, which will allow you tow more weight

Class IV Ball Mounts

Class IV ball mounts and hitches are rated to tow up to 12,000 lbs GTW. Class IV ball mounts will work with trailer hitches that have a 2″ x 2″ opening. The GTW and TW of the ball mount should match or exceed the trailer hitch.

• Has a 2″ x 2″ shank
• Held in place with a 5/8″ pin
• Uses ball with a 1-1/4″ shank diameter
• Rated for up to 12,000 lbs GTW
• Can use a 1-7/8″, 2″ or 2-5/16″ hitch ball
• Can accomodate weight distribution system, which will allow you tow more weight

Class V Ball Mounts

Class V ball mounts and hitches are typically rated to tow 12,000 GTW.  Class V ball mounts will work with trailer hitches with a 2-1/2″ x 2-1/2″ opening. When towing with Class V receiver hitches, the GTW and TW of the ball mount should match or exceed the receiver hitch.

• Has a 2-1/2″ x 2-1/2″ shank
• Held in place with a 5/8″ pin
• Use a ball with a 1-1/4″ shank diameter
• Rated for up to 14,000 lbs GTW
• Can use a 1-7/8″, 2″, or 2-5/16″ ball
• Can accommodate weight distribution system, which will allow you tow more weight

Call Bates RV and we can help you with your towing needs.

2013 Jayco Pinnacle 36RSQS

Find your Jayco Trailer at Bates RV

Here is a 2013 Jayco Pinnacle 36RSQS  

Winterizing Your RV

Listed below are the steps for winterizing your rv.  These are guidelines, please check your trailers owners manual for any specific steps that may be required per your manufacturer.

1. Drain and flush fresh water tank
2. Drain and flush gray water holding tank
3. Drain and flush black water holding tank
4. Drain and flush hot water tank
5. If you have low-point drain lines under your RV:
o Open the hot and cold faucets in your RV
o Uncap the low-point drain lines; let water drain completely
o Recap Drain Lines
o Close the hot and cold faucets
6. Blow out the water lines:
(Note: If you have low-point drain lines, this may not be necessary)
o Screw on compressed air adapter onto main fresh water inlet
o Apply compressed air, keeping pressure to less than 60 psi
o Open each faucet, one at a time, to force water out of lines
o Drain water filter canisters.
o Depending on your unit you may have a washing machine, icemaker or
dishwasher; the lines to these would also have to be drained and blown
out. (Consult owner’s manual.)
o If you have a tank flush be sure to blow out also
o Make sure to open each faucet in the RV, including the shower and toilet
(Don’t forget the hand sprayer)
o Open hot water drain plug and blow out the water in this tank
o Remove compressed air and compressed air adapter
o Replace drain plug in hot water heater and close all faucets
7. Put Antifreeze in the water lines:
(If you were confident you have successfully blown out all the water from your
system, at this point you would add anti-freeze to all traps and the stool. One
cupful in each is usually enough, winterizing would be complete at this point. If
not proceed with following steps)
a. Use RV Non-Toxic Antifreeze ONLY
b. Approximately 1-2 gallons should be plenty
c. Make sure water pump is off and all faucets are closed
d. Close the Water Bypass Valve to your hot water tank
NOTE: If you don't have a Water Bypass Valve for your hot water
tank, seriously consider having one installed. Otherwise, in addition to
the water lines you will end up filling the hot water tank with
antifreeze. It's not harmful, but you'll use an additional six gallons of
antifreeze.
e. Disconnect the water line where it joins the fresh water tank
- or -
If your RV is so equipped, shut off the valve coming from the fresh
water tank and open the valve for the winterizing inlet line
f. Place the water inlet line (either from the main system or the
winterizing line) into the jug or other source container with the RV
antifreeze.
g. Switch on the water pump; it will start to suck up the antifreeze into
the lines
h. Open each valve of each faucet slowly, one at a time, until the red
antifreeze starts coming out. Once flowing shut off the faucet valve.
Note: If for some reason you can't drain the water lines using the lowpoint
drain lines and you can't blow out the lines with compressed air,
you will have to wait until the antifreeze pushes out the fresh water in
the lines before closing the valve. A rule of thumb; don't shut off the
valve until the antifreeze starts coming out.
i. Remember to also do this for the toilet and the shower.
j. Be sure to drain water filter. Remove filter before adding anti-freeze
and store in zip loc bag.
k. Shut off the water pump
l. Remove the inlet line from the antifreeze, then either:
Re-attach the water line to the fresh water tank
- or -
Close the winterizing inlet valve and reopen the fresh water valve, if
your RV is so equipped.
m. Pour a small amount of antifreeze down each drain to ensure that the
sink traps have antifreeze in them.
n. Pour a small amount of antifreeze in the toilet bowl also. Note: Don't
flush it into the holding tank.
8. You Are Done!

Need help winterizing your trailer?  Call Bates RV 813-659-0008 or email our service department

Fresh Water Leak Test

Checking your trailer for leaks in the water system

Fresh Water Plumbing Leaks Procedure With Water

1. Make sure all lines are capped off at ends going to faucets.
2. Install water pressure gauge at end of water line at galley faucet hook up.
3. Once you have capped off all waterlines going to faucets and installed pressure gauge. You can turn water pump on to assure that the water lines and water heater are full of water.
4. Once water lines and water heater have been filled. Pump waterlines up with 100 p.s.i. (+ or- 5) using your air compressor and fitting that can be installed at the city water inlet.
5. Leave this on for 10 minutes. (Minimum)
6. If you see a drop in pressure find the source and properly fix it.
7. Once you feel item is repaired you need to go thru process # 3 and #4 again to assure this.

Fresh Water Plumbing Leaks Procedure Without Water

1. Turn off all water valves
2. Place 35-45 psi of air pressure into city water hook-up
3. If unit does NOT hold pressure for _ hour- re-apply air
- A. Check for loose fittings
- B. Check all tubing or pipes for cracks or cuts
- C. Check for bad gaskets at faucets or toilet, etc.
4. Upon finding leak replace bad part- gasket, fitting, pipe, etc.
5. Re-apply 35-45 psi of air pressure to re-check entire system
6. Repeat as necessary

Contact Bates RV for service

Airstream Sealants

28430W – 16 oz can of Acryl-R Seam Sealer and Applicator Head. Use to seal all metal to metal seams, including but not limited to, segment seams, sides and bottom of riveted frame windows, compartment door frames, marker lights, and tail lights; any where a fine bead of gray sealant is required.

330365-01 – 10 oz tube of AdSeal Premium Quality Sealant Adhesive – White. Use to seal all exterior roof components (on travel trailers with white roof sheets)

330365-03 – 10 oz tube of AdSeal Premium Quality Sealant Adhesive – Gray. Use to seal eyebrows of riveted frame windows and main door; any where a thicker bead of gray sealant is required.

360180-04 – 10 oz tube of Sikaflex 221 Multi-Purpose Polyurethane Sealant – Black.  Use to seal below the rubrail on trailers 1984-present with pewter gray underbelly, also on Safari black trailer windows.

Call 813-659-0008 or email Bates RV to order your Airstream sealant.

Cleaning Airstream Curtains

Cleaning Curtains

There are two different curtains in travel trailers: a loose-weave type for Classics and a polyester type for all other travel trailers.

Both types can be machine washed however we recommend you hang-dry the drapes in Safari, Bambi, and CCD models.


Safari, Bambi, and International CCD Curtains

Note: These curtains are manufactured by Dana Mills, Inc.

1. Remove the drapes.
2. Dry clean the curtains.
3. Hang drapes up to dry so they don’t shrink.


Classic Curtains

Note: These curtains are manufactured by Crestmont, Inc.

1. Remove the drapes.
2. Machine wash drapes using the gentle cycle. We
recommend using Woolite™.
3. Dry the drapes using a drier or hang them to dry.



Check out the Airstreams we have in stock