Families of Oklahoma

Our thoughts and prayers go out to those in Oklahoma and all affected by tornadoes in the surrounding areas.

Choosing the Correct Ball Mount for Towing Your Trailer

 

When you make the purchase of your trailer you want to have a safe and comfortable experience. You want the trailer to be as level as possible to put less strain on the connection between your trailer and hitch.  Choosing the correct ball mount is very important.  A ball mount can be purchased with a rise or a drop.  Below are the steps to determine how much of a rise or drop is needed.

Measure the Hitch Height:

Measure from the ground to the top of the receiver opening on the trailer hitch.  On a Class III and IV hitch measure to the top of the 2″ hole and on a Class V hitch to the top of the 2-1/2″ hole.

 

Measure the Coupler Height:

Measure the coupler height from the ground to the bottom of the trailer’s coupler. Make sure the trailer is level and on level ground.

Compute the difference:

If the hitch height is greater than the trailer height, then

• hitch height – trailer height = drop

If the trailer height is greater than the hitch height, then

trailer height – hitch height = rise

The ball mount with the rise or drop closest to the difference should then be chosen. For example, if the hitch height is 24-3/4″ and the coupler height is 17″.  Because the hitch height is greater, a ball mount with a drop of 7-3/4″ would be required for a level trailer. A ball mount with an 8″ drop is closest to the actual drop and would be the right choice.

Ball Mount Dimensions

Drop

This is the distance from the top of the shank to the top of the ball platform.

Rise

Rise is the distance from the top of the shank to the top of the ball platform.

Length

The length is the distance from the center of the ball hole to the center of the pin hole. The length will determine how much clearance will be available between the vehicle and the trailer and can be used to get past a spare tire or tailgate.

Ball Hole Diameter

Ball hole diameter is the size of the hole in the platform of the ball mount. This measurement will determine what diameter shank your hitch ball should have for it to properly fit in the ball mount. Typical sizes are 3/4″, 1″ and 1-1/4″.

Ball Mount Classes

Class I Ball Mounts

When towing with a Class I trailer hitch, the Class I ball mount that is recommended by the manufacturer should be used. All Class I trailer hitches are tested and rated with the specific ball mount for that hitch. Using a ball mount that is not recommended by the manufacturer will void the warranty.

• Has a 1-1/4″ x 1-1/4″ shank
• Class II ball mounts will not fit on Class I trailer hitches
• Held in place with a 1/2″ pin
• Uses ball with a 3/4″ shank diameter
• Rated for 2,000 lbs GTW
• Only 1-7/8″ or 2″ hitch balls can be used

Class II Ball Mounts

When towing with a Class II trailer hitch, the ball mount that is recommended by the manufacturer should be used. All Class II trailer hitches are tested and rated with the specific ball mount for that hitch. Using a ball mount that is not recommended by the manufacturer will void the warranty.

• Has a 1-1/4″ x 1-1/4″ shank
• Class II ball mounts will not fit on Class I trailer hitches
• Held in place with a 1/2″ pin
• Uses ball with a 3/4″ shank diameter
• Rated for 3,500 lbs GTW
• Only 1-7/8″ or 2″ hitch balls can be used

Class III Ball Mounts

Class III ball mounts and hitches are rated to tow up to 6,000 lbs GTW. Class III ball mounts will work with trailer hitches that have a 2″ x 2″ opening. The GTW and TW of the ball mount should match or exceed the trailer hitch.

• Has a 2″ x 2″ shank
• Held in place with a 5/8″ pin
• Uses ball with a 1″ or 1-1/4″ shank diameter
• Rated for up to 6,000 lbs GTW
• Can use a 1-7/8″, 2″ or 2-5/16″ hitch ball
• Can accommodate weight distribution system, which will allow you tow more weight

Class IV Ball Mounts

Class IV ball mounts and hitches are rated to tow up to 12,000 lbs GTW. Class IV ball mounts will work with trailer hitches that have a 2″ x 2″ opening. The GTW and TW of the ball mount should match or exceed the trailer hitch.

• Has a 2″ x 2″ shank
• Held in place with a 5/8″ pin
• Uses ball with a 1-1/4″ shank diameter
• Rated for up to 12,000 lbs GTW
• Can use a 1-7/8″, 2″ or 2-5/16″ hitch ball
• Can accomodate weight distribution system, which will allow you tow more weight

Class V Ball Mounts

Class V ball mounts and hitches are typically rated to tow 12,000 GTW.  Class V ball mounts will work with trailer hitches with a 2-1/2″ x 2-1/2″ opening. When towing with Class V receiver hitches, the GTW and TW of the ball mount should match or exceed the receiver hitch.

• Has a 2-1/2″ x 2-1/2″ shank
• Held in place with a 5/8″ pin
• Use a ball with a 1-1/4″ shank diameter
• Rated for up to 14,000 lbs GTW
• Can use a 1-7/8″, 2″, or 2-5/16″ ball
• Can accommodate weight distribution system, which will allow you tow more weight

Call Bates RV and we can help you with your towing needs.

2013 Jayco Pinnacle 36RSQS

Find your Jayco Trailer at Bates RV

Here is a 2013 Jayco Pinnacle 36RSQS  

Winterizing Your RV

Listed below are the steps for winterizing your rv.  These are guidelines, please check your trailers owners manual for any specific steps that may be required per your manufacturer.

1. Drain and flush fresh water tank
2. Drain and flush gray water holding tank
3. Drain and flush black water holding tank
4. Drain and flush hot water tank
5. If you have low-point drain lines under your RV:
o Open the hot and cold faucets in your RV
o Uncap the low-point drain lines; let water drain completely
o Recap Drain Lines
o Close the hot and cold faucets
6. Blow out the water lines:
(Note: If you have low-point drain lines, this may not be necessary)
o Screw on compressed air adapter onto main fresh water inlet
o Apply compressed air, keeping pressure to less than 60 psi
o Open each faucet, one at a time, to force water out of lines
o Drain water filter canisters.
o Depending on your unit you may have a washing machine, icemaker or
dishwasher; the lines to these would also have to be drained and blown
out. (Consult owner’s manual.)
o If you have a tank flush be sure to blow out also
o Make sure to open each faucet in the RV, including the shower and toilet
(Don’t forget the hand sprayer)
o Open hot water drain plug and blow out the water in this tank
o Remove compressed air and compressed air adapter
o Replace drain plug in hot water heater and close all faucets
7. Put Antifreeze in the water lines:
(If you were confident you have successfully blown out all the water from your
system, at this point you would add anti-freeze to all traps and the stool. One
cupful in each is usually enough, winterizing would be complete at this point. If
not proceed with following steps)
a. Use RV Non-Toxic Antifreeze ONLY
b. Approximately 1-2 gallons should be plenty
c. Make sure water pump is off and all faucets are closed
d. Close the Water Bypass Valve to your hot water tank
NOTE: If you don't have a Water Bypass Valve for your hot water
tank, seriously consider having one installed. Otherwise, in addition to
the water lines you will end up filling the hot water tank with
antifreeze. It's not harmful, but you'll use an additional six gallons of
antifreeze.
e. Disconnect the water line where it joins the fresh water tank
- or -
If your RV is so equipped, shut off the valve coming from the fresh
water tank and open the valve for the winterizing inlet line
f. Place the water inlet line (either from the main system or the
winterizing line) into the jug or other source container with the RV
antifreeze.
g. Switch on the water pump; it will start to suck up the antifreeze into
the lines
h. Open each valve of each faucet slowly, one at a time, until the red
antifreeze starts coming out. Once flowing shut off the faucet valve.
Note: If for some reason you can't drain the water lines using the lowpoint
drain lines and you can't blow out the lines with compressed air,
you will have to wait until the antifreeze pushes out the fresh water in
the lines before closing the valve. A rule of thumb; don't shut off the
valve until the antifreeze starts coming out.
i. Remember to also do this for the toilet and the shower.
j. Be sure to drain water filter. Remove filter before adding anti-freeze
and store in zip loc bag.
k. Shut off the water pump
l. Remove the inlet line from the antifreeze, then either:
Re-attach the water line to the fresh water tank
- or -
Close the winterizing inlet valve and reopen the fresh water valve, if
your RV is so equipped.
m. Pour a small amount of antifreeze down each drain to ensure that the
sink traps have antifreeze in them.
n. Pour a small amount of antifreeze in the toilet bowl also. Note: Don't
flush it into the holding tank.
8. You Are Done!

Need help winterizing your trailer?  Call Bates RV 813-659-0008 or email our service department

Fresh Water Leak Test

Checking your trailer for leaks in the water system

Fresh Water Plumbing Leaks Procedure With Water

1. Make sure all lines are capped off at ends going to faucets.
2. Install water pressure gauge at end of water line at galley faucet hook up.
3. Once you have capped off all waterlines going to faucets and installed pressure gauge. You can turn water pump on to assure that the water lines and water heater are full of water.
4. Once water lines and water heater have been filled. Pump waterlines up with 100 p.s.i. (+ or- 5) using your air compressor and fitting that can be installed at the city water inlet.
5. Leave this on for 10 minutes. (Minimum)
6. If you see a drop in pressure find the source and properly fix it.
7. Once you feel item is repaired you need to go thru process # 3 and #4 again to assure this.

Fresh Water Plumbing Leaks Procedure Without Water

1. Turn off all water valves
2. Place 35-45 psi of air pressure into city water hook-up
3. If unit does NOT hold pressure for _ hour- re-apply air
- A. Check for loose fittings
- B. Check all tubing or pipes for cracks or cuts
- C. Check for bad gaskets at faucets or toilet, etc.
4. Upon finding leak replace bad part- gasket, fitting, pipe, etc.
5. Re-apply 35-45 psi of air pressure to re-check entire system
6. Repeat as necessary

Contact Bates RV for service

Airstream Sealants

28430W – 16 oz can of Acryl-R Seam Sealer and Applicator Head. Use to seal all metal to metal seams, including but not limited to, segment seams, sides and bottom of riveted frame windows, compartment door frames, marker lights, and tail lights; any where a fine bead of gray sealant is required.

330365-01 – 10 oz tube of AdSeal Premium Quality Sealant Adhesive – White. Use to seal all exterior roof components (on travel trailers with white roof sheets)

330365-03 – 10 oz tube of AdSeal Premium Quality Sealant Adhesive – Gray. Use to seal eyebrows of riveted frame windows and main door; any where a thicker bead of gray sealant is required.

360180-04 – 10 oz tube of Sikaflex 221 Multi-Purpose Polyurethane Sealant – Black.  Use to seal below the rubrail on trailers 1984-present with pewter gray underbelly, also on Safari black trailer windows.

Call 813-659-0008 or email Bates RV to order your Airstream sealant.

Cleaning Airstream Curtains

Cleaning Curtains

There are two different curtains in travel trailers: a loose-weave type for Classics and a polyester type for all other travel trailers.

Both types can be machine washed however we recommend you hang-dry the drapes in Safari, Bambi, and CCD models.


Safari, Bambi, and International CCD Curtains

Note: These curtains are manufactured by Dana Mills, Inc.

1. Remove the drapes.
2. Dry clean the curtains.
3. Hang drapes up to dry so they don’t shrink.


Classic Curtains

Note: These curtains are manufactured by Crestmont, Inc.

1. Remove the drapes.
2. Machine wash drapes using the gentle cycle. We
recommend using Woolite™.
3. Dry the drapes using a drier or hang them to dry.



Check out the Airstreams we have in stock

Your Airstream and Propane

The LPG (Propane) System

Take a look at the big cover over the propane bottles on your Airstream. Open it up and you'll see two painted steel or Aluminum bottles connected to hoses, and a device that regulates the flow of LPG (Liquid Petroleum Gas), also known as propane. Each bottle has its own shutoff valve. When the trailer is stored, they should be closed. When the trailer is in use, they should both be open.

The reason for this is because you have an "automatic changeover regulator." The changeover regulator has a switch that points to one bottle. Try switching it from one bottle to the other. Propane gas will flow first from the bottle that the black switch is pointing to. We'll call that the "primary" bottle.

Here's the automatic part: if the primary bottle runs dry, the regulator starts to draw gas from the secondary bottle, giving the trailer an uninterrupted flow of gas. This means that you don't have to get up in the middle of the night to switch bottles—and believe me, that's the time propane bottles tend to run dry the most!

To be extra helpful, a small red indicator will appear on the regulator when the primary bottle is empty. It's a good idea to check the indicator on the regulator every day while you are camping. If it is red, move the black switch to point at the secondary tank, and you'll see the indicator become green again. Make a note to get the empty tank refilled at your next opportunity.

Take a moment to get down on the ground and see where those gas lines go. You'll find that they go underneath the belly pan, and disappear up into the body of the Airstream trailer at various points. The idea is that the propane gas is kept outside the living space until the last possible moment, when the lines go straight up to the refrigerator, stove, furnace, and water heater.

You may also see small valves mounted on the gas lines beneath the trailer or inside the appliance compartments. These are placed so you can shut off gas to part of the system, for example, when an appliance has to be removed for service.

In an emergency, during storage, or when traveling, always shut off the gas valves at the propane bottles. This can keep a small problem from becoming a big one!

Airstream Water Spots

So your Airstream has water spots and you want to know how to remove them?  The most common type of water spots are mineral deposits.  The best way to remove these is by using a 50/50 solution of vinegar and water.  This solution neutralizes these marks.  Bates RV has many tips for keeping your Airstream looking new.  Call, email or stop by.

Airstream Zip Dee Awning Guide

Airstream International Sterling

Designed by Christopher C. Deam and built by Airstream, the Sterling keeps design impressively simple and provides all the amenities you needs. 

Bates RV in Dover, FL has many Airstream Trailers in stock.  Call or stop by and they will be happy to show you around.

Airstream Flying Cloud 19

The Airstream Flying Cloud 19 combines light weight ruggedness with total practicality.  Bates RV in Dover, Florida has a large selection of Airstream Travel Trailers.

Visit Bates RV for the largest selection of Airstream Travel Trailers.

Airstream Land Yacht

Airstream has done it again.  They newest of the Airstreams is the Land Yacht.  It is luxurious!!  It is truly yacht-like and it incorporates elements from the world's finest luxury watercraft.  Tecnoform's engineering department partnered with Mauro Micheli, to create this contemporary look.

The Land Yacht is capable of sleeping five people.  It has a bedroom in the front, a bathroom in the middle and a rear social area where the galley can be hidden when not in use.  It features a powered bed lift to reveal hidden storage.  The Land Yacht features three power awnings, with remote control, and a quiet ducted air system to provide power air conditioning.  

The 28' Airstream Land Yacht is crafted with quality materials and equipment, including high luster teak and white wood inlay boat-deck flooring, LED panel lighting, Corian® and ultraleather®.  

Bates RV can help get you in your Airstream Land Yacht.

Handmade personalized wood painted camping and RV signs. These handmade camping signs are made from wood and hand painted with exterior paint. The camping signs are completely weather proof for those lucky enough to have a motor home, RV, pop up trailer, pull behind travel trailer or just a simple tent set up at the campground. Our camping signs make perfect gifts for the hard to buy person in your family.

Bates RV Airstream Boutique

Repack RV Wheel Bearings

I know this is a messy job, but this maintenance can save you big bills later.  Over time the grease breaks down and your trailer's weight rides on the wheel bearings.  It is very crucial to keep them well lubricated for safe travels.

Listen to your bearings.  They will normally whine and grind before they fail.  Unnatural sounds that vary depending on speed often indicate your bearings need attention.  

Tips:

• Don't reuse cotter pins
• Use high temperature wheel bearing grease.  (All grease isn't compatible among brands.)
• Thoroughly clean all old grease from bearings, races and hub cavities.
• Service wheel bearings annually or every 10,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
• While performing bearing maintenance inspect them carefully.  If you see nicks or discoloration on the bearings or races replace the inner and outer bearings and races on both sides of the axle.
• Once the hub, bearings and thrust washer are in place, snug up the castellated spindle nut while spinning the drum to seat the bearing.  Back off the nut a turn then re tighten it to about 50 ft-lb while spinning the drum.  Back the nut off 1/4 turn. Fine tune the position of the nut to align it closest to the recesses with the cotter pin hole, or lock the nut in position with the existing tanged washer or cage style retainer.

If you have an Airstream trailer, they recommend Valvoline Crimson Grease.  If you are looking for bearings or races for your Airstream trailer, call Bates RV and speak with their parts department.  They can get you the correct parts listed below.

Models- All

Bearing and Seals  0" Brakes - Prior to 9/15/1971

Bearings

Outer 680380 

Inner 680381 

Inner Race 680385

Outer Race 680387

Grease Seal 680387 

10" Brakes - After 9/15/1971

Bearings

Outer 680380 

Inner 685016 

Inner Race 685017 

Outer Race 680387 

Grease Seal 680387 

12" Brakes - Has not changed. Remained the same from late 1960's to Present

Bearings

Outer 450658

Inner 450659 

Inner Race 680364 

Outer Race 680365 

Grease Seal 680370-100 

Bates RV Airstream Boutique

Are you looking for Airstream collectibles, Airstream merchandise, campsite signs, Airstream housewares, key chains, jewelry, shirts, bags, yard items, just about anything you can think of that could do with Airstream?

Bates RV has taken a gently used Airstream trailer and turned into a Boutique for your shopping pleasure.  Come check out Bates RV Airstream Boutique.

Live Laugh RV

Bates RV Airstream Boutique

Bates RV Has NewMar Motor Homes

Bates RV is happy to carry the NewMar line of motor homes.  NewMar has a reputation for legendary quality with high quality Amish craftsmanship.  Before they ship a unit it is checked then checked again for performance.  

Their motor homes start with innovative chassis weld process.  This ensures the RV drives with less noise and a smoother ride and longer service life.  They move on to welding the subfloor to the chassis rail and insulated for easy climate control. NewMar uses the finest RV flooring, unique custom built handcrafted cabinetry, strongest sidewalls and roof.  They use a patented slide designs, functional and comfortable interiors and exteriors, rigorous quality control.  NewMar is known for award winning customer support.

Bates RV has several NewMar motor homes  in stock.  They are willing to help you find the right fit for you, your family and your travel needs.  Come to Bates RV and let us help get you on the road today in your new NewMar gas or diesel motor home. 

Bates RV NewMar Dutch Star 4318

Welcome To Bates RV

Welcome to Bates RV.  We are excited to have a blog up and running.  Please keep checking back as we intend to update regularly.

Bates RV is a family owned RV dealership for over 25 years.  We have many repeat customers, because we like to show our customers how much we appreciate them.  We want our customers to be 100% satisfied and we make that well known by displaying our home phone number (941-485-9542) at various locations throughout the dealership and on our hold message while on the phones.

A third of our employees are Work Kampers.  They live in RV's so it is easy for them to convey the RV Lifestyle.  You can find them in the sales and service departments of our dealership.

We carry many lines of RV's at Bates RV.  We have Jayco, Gulfstream, Forest River, Open Range, Coachmen, Evergreen and NewMar.  We are very happy to have these lines and we have a good working relationship with these manufacturers.  It makes it better for our customers so they have a faster turn around for service and with parts issues also.

Frank Bates LOVES to trade.  He trades just about anything as long as it doesn't eat.  We have traded cars, boats, airplanes, mausoleums, jewelry, motorcycles, washing machines, teeth and rocks.  It makes it fun for customers to know just about anything you have, you can use to make a trade for the RV of your dreams.

So make Bates RV  your dealership of choice when you are in need of parts and service or looking for your new RV.

Bates RV

4656 McIntosh Road

Dover, FL 33527

813-659-0008  local phone

888-228-3778 Toll Free

813-659-8098 fax for parts and service

813-659-0308 fax for sales

Our Location

Map

Satellite